Or Tor Kor Market

CNN once ranked it the world's 4th best fresh market. It's run by the Marketing Organization for Farmers, a state agency: the mission is to let the country's best growers sell direct — which is why the mangoes here look airbrushed and cost triple.

This is where durian aristocracy holds court: rare varieties like Kan Yao can command prices of a small motorcycle per fruit, and vendors will open one for you with the gravity of a sommelier decanting Burgundy.